Vietnam Update
We Still Lost the War
4/2/10
“Good Morning Vietnam”
Such a trite way to start a travelogue and yet so fitting when
you stop to notice that on nearly every corner someone is hawking a T-Shirt with
the very same sentiments. For me its been nearly 40+ years since my last morning
in Vietnam, and what a difference that amount of time makes. I have been looking
forward to this trip for quite some time. Unlike my first visit here, where they
were dragging me kicking and screaming onto the plane, this time I actually paid
good money to get here.
When people hear that you are planning a trip to Vietnam there
are usually only two responses……”why” or “I’ve heard its great and would love to
visit someday” When I put the word out to the group sometime ago, I wasn’t quite
prepared for the response. Our group of travelers quickly swelled to 24 and
eventually settled at 22 as I set about planning our sojourn thru the
country.
I soon became well acquainted with Mr. Nam and Asia King Travel
located in Hanoi halfway around the world. Since the trip had been in the back
of my mind for some time, I dug out some previous e-mails to see if he was still
in business and what he could do for us. Many e-mails later we arrived at what I
hoped to be an entertaining 3 weeks. The weather is always a tricky
consideration in this part of the world, while I didn’t have much say so on my
first trip here, my second excursion would be at my choosing. Even at that we
are going to experience all the extremes. If the weather does co-operate, we
should have mild to cool weather in the north as we make our way to Hanoi then
north to the Chinese border. As we wined our way to the South it will get warmer
and more humid until we begin to perish when we reach Ho Chi Minh City aka
Saigon. Check your local weather in the paper and you’ll notice that its 93
degrees with 110% humidity Should be lovely.
Today, after a rather rough start for some in the group we find
ourselves in John McCain’s turf, far to the north in Hanoi, were he spent more
than a few miserable years. Our stated goal was to meet up in Hanoi and begin
our adventure on March 31st. As some of us were traveling on miles,
others purchasing their tickets and all coming from various parts of CA, and
Utah, we began to trickle into Vietnam as early as the 29th.
The Carmans arrived first with the Browns, Coles and the Kuris
scheduled next with the remainder in on the 30th. The Kuris had
arranged a limo and champagne for our trip to LA and all was going as planned
when things began to disintegrate rapidly. Due to a clerical error, the Kuris
were left in LA to sort out their visa application as we winged our way west
trusting that we would see them again. Long story, short and several e-mails
later they joined the remaining travelers the next day and traveled to Taipei
and then onto Hanoi just a few dollars lighter and with their nerves for the
most part still intact.
Our arrival in Hanoi, much like forty years ago was without
much fanfare. There was a nice young man there to greet us holding a hand
printed “Gary Brown” group sign rather than a mean spirited SGT, barking orders
at us from the tarmac. The baggage handling was also considerably more civilized
than before, as we were escorted to are waiting vehicle to begin our early
morning trek to the city proper.
Its difficult to believe that you are in third world country,
with all of the activity that surrounds you. As we get closer to the center of
öld town” and the middle of Hanoi, the frenzy of activity is overwhelming to say
the least. There are currently some 3 million vespas and assorted motorbikes in
Hanoi and on this particular morning they were all on the road, driving into and
around us to some undisclosed destination carrying everything from pigs to
plumbing supplies and all in a great hurry.
We settled into the Thien Thai Hotel and then hooked up with
the Carmans to begin exploring our section of Hanoi while doing battle with the
remaining motor bikes who hadn’t already tried to run us over. The traffic and
the noise (the honking) is more than incredible. Our advice from our driver was
to proceed into the cross walks……eyes straight ahead……no sudden moves…..while
moving a at deliberate pace…….and whatever you do, do not show any fear. That
advice sounds wonderful on paper but when put into practice can be a bit more
difficult. As we set out it only took a few moments until some where on one side
of the street while others were stranded a short distance away shouting
encouragement to the more timid members of the group. You learn early on that
there will never, and I repeat, never be a break in the traffic. So you just
plunge in, put the blinders on, show no fear, and try not to flinch
The sidewalks are alive with thousands of merchants who all
appear to be selling the very same items and all without a customer in sight.
Years ago, the streets were named by the trade guilds depending on what type of
trades that were practiced in an area. Today this practice has resulted in a
concentration of like businesses being located side by side, block after block,
still with no one buying.
Hanoi, or Ha Noi (where the river bends) continues to amuse and
frustrate. Some of the group members do very well navigating the streets and its
traffic, while some of us just tag along. Our first “”shopping”” outing was more
than a little bit frustrating, the guys doing a lot of foot tapping while the
gals felt compelled to peruse every single item being offered for sale. Needless
to say the guys soon became first class members of the royal pain in the ass
club, while the women couldn’t help comment on our impatience and total
disregard for shopping etiquette. After all of that, the lady folk returned
empty handed with the guy types dogging behind, pissing and moaning.
The next day, the gals changed up their game plan after a bit
of reading and plotting. Jill had read about a shopping district where you park
the men in one of many bars and the women then go out shopping, uninterrupted
sans their foot tapping spouses. Sounded like a plan to us. First though we
headed out for the “eyeglass wear”” section of town for some inexpensive
eyeglasses. Although I found it hard to beat my $1 pair from the 99cent store
others found the prices to be great, even though they decided to purchase twice,
three times the number of pairs they actually needed. All in all, the merchants
were smiling and the troops were about to see well for the first time in
years.
Then it was off to the long awaited shopping/bar district.
Stepped out of the taxi after a 50,000 Dong ride and into a lovely bar on the
promenade and the women were off shopping with their hubbies tucked safely away.
Several Tiger beers later, we re-grouped and headed back to the hotel where
hopefully we would meet up with the Kuris as well as the rest of our group
.
Since I’m in charge here, I can’t help but jump forward to the
present moment which is truly spectacular. The day is Friday the 2nd,
and we find ourselves on this beautiful morning sitting aboard our private
“’junk’’ in Halong Bay, world renowned World Heritage Site in Haiphong bay in
the Gulf of Tonkin. If you have not heard of Halong Bay it would be well worth
your time to Google the site. With its thousands of limestone mountain peaks
jumping out of greenish waters, the mystical surroundings take on an almost
magical quality. What with all of the folk-lore bullshit our guide spins, one
can almost image the dragons about to leap out these waters to form new awe
inspiring sites. For those of us that were together in China, it is a salt water
version of the region around Guilin, one of my favorite spots that I have ever
visited. Coupled with the site of passing junks and those at anchor, it does
make for a good morning in Vietnam.
But I digress. We did meet up with the rest of the group. China
Airlines took pity on the Kuris and gave them the best possible seating. The
rest of the group, all of whom ended up flying together , were hustled on the
plane and jammed into seats designed for a starving Chinese refugee, only then
to endure a 13 hour plane ride with 400 of their new best friends.
Since all of us hadn’t met one another face to face, we began
the Hi, my names Fred routine forgetting one name as we were introduced to the
next. It is a large group and I’m sure at times its going to get a bit unwieldy,
but I’m in charge for only a few more hours. I can’t imagine on trying to get a
consensus from 22 people on where to have dinner. I had trouble enough getting
the group out of the hotel and directly across the street for a bit of
lunch.
A bit of a side note. In addition, to the signage at the
Airport, another, even more impressive “”Welcome Gary Brown Group”” greeted our
travelers in the entry of the Flower Garden Hotel. Needless to say, I am
becoming quite well-known in the Hanoi area. The meet and greet went well and we
made plans to meet back at our hotel down the street in the “””hot pot
restaurant, after mandatory cocktails in the Coles room. Dinner was great, each
of us cooking our pre-selected buffet items, and then cooking our goodies in our
own boiling pots. We let the new arrivals head back and bed down while the rest
of us headed to the disco-NOT!
Those of us early arrivals, staying down the street, needed to
join up with the rest of the group. While it was only a short walk down the
street, the more intelligent members chose a $2 taxi ride, while the more brave
at heart felt the need to economize and prove themselves,
Walked hand in hand with luggage down the busy, honking streets
to the Flower Garden Hotel.
Being the creatures of habit that we are, and realizing a good
thing we headed back to our favorite shopping and drinking area, this time in
larger numbers and many more Taxis. Our bar of choice was actually an Italian
restaurant, so we had a lovely lunch after once we were a party of 22 again.
Later that evening we met up with our guide, whose name we
still can’t pronounce…..I just call him Kung as in King Kung. English spoken
with a Vietnamese accent should prove challenging. Made it thru the
introductions and it was everyone in the bus for our welcome dinner. As usual
way too much food to sleep on as I prepared to resign myself to the number 2
position and let Kung take the reins.
Day two, found us checking out early and heading north by bus
to the area of Halong Bay and the scenery that was surely guaranteed to impress.
It was lovely to be free of the noise and congestion of Hanoi and out to the
countryside…….after a three hour bus ride, with pre arranged stops at a local
gift mart we found ourselves in the environs of the Bay itself. We were tendered
out to our private junk and immediately over-whelmed with the relative luxury we
faced. Private rooms, with bathrooms, stunning deck areas to include a wonderful
dinning room.
We began our short cruise into the area itself, impressed at
every turn with the natural beauty that confounded us. We arrived in one of the
bays and were escorted to the caves for an hour plus walking tour thru the likes
of Carlsbad Caverns, spectacular to say the least. Then it was back on board
with the option of Cocktail or a trek to one of the man-made beaches. What an
easy choice when confronted with the above in such an usual and magnificent
setting.
Dinner, again, was four courses too many but however delicious.
We are currently departing the bay amongst the others concluding their stay in
this truly special and unforgettable region of Vietnam.
This Friday evening finds us back in Hanoi after a three hour
bus ride from Halong Bay. The Bus driver tore off someones over hang on the way
into town, but other than that it was rather uneventful. We're out for dinner
then its on to the train station for our overnite train trek to the northern
most portion of the country where the border touches the Chinese mainland.
The trip and the countryside move by at a rapid pace with the
weather overcast and Seatle like. Once again I'm up against time constraints
and won't be able to proof or spell check..........plz understand
I'll write again
soon..........................................gb
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